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Feature: Istanbul's street food keeps tradition affordable, alive

Source: Xinhua| 2026-01-22 14:41:45|Editor: huaxia

ISTANBUL, Jan. 22 (Xinhua) -- Around noon, a long line waits outside a tiny shop on a back street in Istanbul's historic Karakoy district. Inside, the rhythmic motion of knives stripping fish bones signals the preparation of the fish wrap, a beloved traditional street food.

"What really sets us apart is our sauce and our spices," said Servet Ikitar, 33, co-owner of the shop, which has been running for 30 years. The sauces are made in-house, using 45 ingredients in secret blends of olive oil, pomegranate molasses, soy sauce and special spices.

Priced at 250 Turkish liras (about 5.9 U.S. dollars), the mackerel wrap is filled with fish and salad, making it a hearty meal by local standards. With no seating and barely enough room inside, customers place their orders and eat on the street -- an experience many say is part of its appeal.

The popularity of such food reflects both culinary tradition and economic realities. Despite a recent downturn in Türkiye's long-standing high inflation, rising food prices continue to hit hard, especially in Istanbul, where the cost of living is most acute. Turkey's annual inflation rate landed at 30.89 percent year-on-year in December 2025, according to official data.

Millions of workers are trying to make ends meet on a monthly minimum wage of approximately 22,000 liras (508 dollars). By contrast, the monthly food expenditure for a family of four stood at around 30,000 liras (693 dollars) in November, and the total income required to cover all basic expenses, including food, housing, transportation, education and healthcare, was calculated at roughly 97,000 liras (2,234 dollars), according to data from the Confederation of Turkish Trade Unions.

Against this economic backdrop, street food remains a lifeline for many. The Karakoy shop serves a wide range of customers, from tourists to workers and students, and stays busy from morning until late at night.

Metin Erenel, a retired veterinarian who waited about an hour in line one evening, praised both the taste and affordability of the food.

"For anyone on a limited budget, it's incredibly affordable," he said. "At a restaurant, a similar meal could easily cost over 700 liras. Here, you get the same satisfaction for a fraction of the cost."

While fish wraps are a common sight along Istanbul's waterfront, the city's street food culture extends far beyond seafood. One iconic dish is kokorec, a local delicacy made from lamb intestines wrapped around skewers and grilled horizontally.

Oguzhan Sayi, owner of Ozzie's eatery, said his family's kokorec tradition dates back nearly 130 years. Having run the business for the past 11 years, he focuses on preserving the dish's original spirit while introducing subtle innovations. Among his signature offerings is a kokorec wrap made with sweetbreads using his own formula.

Located in Istanbul's Dolapdere neighborhood, Sayi's small shop draws a diverse crowd, from celebrities and food critics to workers and students. The prices remain accessible, with a half-loaf kokorec sandwich costing 250 liras.

Offal-based dishes like kokorec, which originated in poverty, remain among the cheapest meals available, often purchased with just "loose change," Sayi said.

Other street food favorites further add to Istanbul's culinary variety and affordability. Chickpea rice typically sells for 100 to 200 liras, while tantuni wraps cost around 150 to 250 liras. For a lighter option, the sesame-covered simit, a type of bread ring, can be bought for as little as 20 liras, making it one of the city's most accessible foods.

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